A small, attractive city with important and extensive Roman remains, including substantial sections of its Roman walls (guided tours daily). The Cathedral is 15th/17th c. and has a fine portico. The figure on top of the pinnacle of the tower is that of maragato who, legend has it, fought at the battle of Clavijo. The interesting Diocesan museum (10:00-14:00 & 16:00-20:00) with 12th c. tomb paintings is attached to the Cathedral. The most striking building in the city is the Palacio Episcopal, known to one and all as the Gaudí building after its architect. It is in great contrast with the Cathedral only a few metres away. It contains the Museo de los Caminos, a collection of pilgrimage artifacts. Open in the summer daily 10:00-14:00 & 16:00-20:00, and in the winter Mon-Sat 11:00-14:00 & 15:30-18:30. 2€ or 4.50€ for a joint ticket to this and the Diocesan museum. In the 18-19th c. Astorga was the chocolate centre of Spain. Today almost all that is left is the Museo del Chocolate, c/José María Goy. Mon-Sat 12:00-14:00 & 18:00-20:00, Sun 12:00-14:00. Roman remains have been found near the Church of San Francisco. There is also a new Roman museum, entry 1.50€. The Ayuntamiento is 17th c with figures in traditional maragato dress that chime the hours on the clock.

Church and Mass - Mass available in the Cathedral and in a number of other churches in Astorga. The Fransiscans in the Convento Sancti Spiritus have a daily evening Mass at 19:00. The Redemptorists church in the Calle Padres Redentoristas has pilgrim vepsers in the summer months.

On Tuesday there is a large open-air market in Astorga. The centre is crowded and yellow arrows may be obscured.

As you leave Astorga you are heading into the mountains. The stretch between Astorga and Ponferrada is one of the most interesting and beautiful of the whole Camino. As far as the Cruz de Ferro you pass through the Maragatería. The inhabitants of Astorga and 45 villages to the west and south are known as maragatos. Their ethnic origins are unknown for certain, perhaps the Phoenicians, perhaps the Berbers in the 9th c. Whichever, they were a race apart and for centuries were the muleteers of Spain, doing the job now done by 38 tonne trucks. A proud people who are renowned for their honesty and with unique customs.

WARNING: It is a long and hard 50+ km across the mountains of León from Astorga to Ponferrada. The route goes up to 1500 m and, as in all mountains, the weather can change without warning. Take warm clothes and waterproofs, even in summer. Basic food can be bought along the way (there is a food shop in Rabanal in summer) and there are bars (with meals) in all inhabited villages. The route is uphill virtually all the way for over 30 km; and steeply downhill thereafter.