Las Herrerías
The village, mainly off road down in the river valley, has an English connection. The last houses in Herrerías were called Hospital in line with a Papal Bull of 1178 which mentioned a ‘hospital of the English’. There was also a chapel where pilgrims who had died were buried.
There now follows a beautiful route up to O Cebreiro (only 8 km but very steep so allow adequate time), initially through chestnut woods and then through open country and a series of hamlets. There is a tarmac road to the first hamlet, La Faba, but walkers can turn left on a well signed track up through woods. Cyclists can continue, turning right at a junction, by-passing La Faba, and rejoining walkers at the second hamlet, Laguna de Castillo, but be warned it is a long climb. In bad weather, walkers are advised to take the cyclists’ option. In atrocious weather, walkers are advised to take the slightly longer but safer tarmac road. The weather can be very bad here at any time of the year. Make sure that you have time to make it to O Cebreiro in daylight.
Las Herrerías translates as the iron works as originally this area had 4 iron forges as the local area is rich in iron ore and the river provided ready power for the large hammers that worked the iron.
The hike up to La Faba is probably the toughest climb of the whole of this part of the Camino. You have a choice therefore of stopping overnight in Las Herrerías and tackling the climb in the morning when you are fresh or getting the main part of the climb completed and staying in La Faba or Laguna or getting the whole climb completed and staying in O Cebreiro. If it helps to decide, the pilgrim accommodation in Las Herrerías is very good, the pilgrim accommodation in La Faba is very charming and the municipal albergue in O Cebreiro is just one big dorm. Personally, I like to stay at La Faba or Laguna as it allows me to complete the beautiful walk up to O Cebreiro as the sun rises.
There is an alternative to the hike up to O Cebreiro and that is to do it on horseback. The horses are very tame and know the route up without you having to direct them. They go up in groups with a man leading the first horses on foot. The cost is €35 plus €5 to transport your pack. There are two departures a day, one in the morning and one in the afternoon and the ascent on horseback takes about two hours. The company who organises this is called Alpaso and their contact number is +34 6 3804 1823. There is no web page, but their Facebook page is www.facebook.com/Al-Paso-130539220478376/.
Places to Stay (6)
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